Malaysia’s hidden gem, and its hometown heroes

Meet Nash

Since 2017, Abdul Nasir Jalaludin aka “Nash” has been operating Rumah Tiang 16, a heritage homestay, out of his ancestral home in Lenggong. Using it as a gateway for guests to explore the town’s hidden gems, he works closely with locals to craft unique-to-Lenggong experiences, such as the boat cruise.

Running a boutique hotel is right up the alley for Nash, a veteran of the travel industry. But it was a series of life events that brought him back to his hometown — and the unexpected creation of Rumah Tiang 16. 

After completing his hospitality studies, Nash spent three decades travelling the world working with five-star hotel brands like Banyan Tree and Sheraton. But he felt a strong yearning to return home after his father’s passing.

At his mother’s request to check in on their family home, he began reacquainting himself with his birthplace. In the process, he learnt about Lenggong’s archaeological significance to humanity’s history — including the discovery of Perak Man, currently housed in the Lenggong museum — which led to the town’s UNESCO Heritage listing in 2012. 

“Typically, a UNESCO designation would transform a site into a hotbed of economic activities. But there was nothing in Lenggong that celebrated its UNESCO heritage status, not even a signboard on the highway!” 

Baffled, Nash reached out to archaeological experts. The more he dug, the more hidden treasures he found in his backyard. “From archaeological sites to backwaters, forest to lakes, traditional Malay gastronomy to artisanal industries, we have it all,” he enthuses. “It’s like turning new pages of Lenggong discovery every day, my own birthplace which I knew nothing about when I left as a ten year old.”

“I could not keep this knowledge to myself. After discussing things with my wife Aaisyah, we agreed that my hospitality experience could help me share what my community has to offer to the outside world.”

The scarlet Jaguar — which Nash used to ferry guests in until it broke down during the MCO (Malaysia’s movement control order during the COVID-19 pandemic) — sure looks spiffy, but my eyes are drawn to the tall outdoor staircase on the side of the house, crowned by a beautiful overhanging latticed arch. “This is our most popular photo spot,” Nash would tell me later. 

Clad in an elegant baju Melayu tunic and tanjak (men’s pointed headdress), Nash greets us with a traditional Malay welcome: a pantun (poetry) recital. His wife Aaisyah then serves us iced blue pea flower drinks, a plate of tapai (fermented glutinous rice cake), and cold towels to freshen up.

“Being a proud Pattani descendant, I wish to inject this Malay-style ice-breaker into the whole Rumah Tiang 16 experience as an introduction to my heritage,” he explains. Originating from the Muslim Malays of Southern Thailand, Pattani people are renowned for their arts and crafts. Nash’s father, Jalaludin Che' Man, who built the family home in 1974, had a deep appreciation for his cultural roots. A beloved teacher, he even engaged a Pattani house builder to incorporate architectural influences from Rumah Perabung Lima (a Malay house with a roof comprising five ridges) and Rumah Kutai (a Malay house with elaborate carvings). 

Why 16 pillars? “Kampung houses typically have 12 pillars but since there were six siblings, my late father decided to make it bigger so we could have more room to run around.”

The family moved to Ipoh in 1981, and the house was left unoccupied until Nash returned in 2017.

Constructed from tropical hardwoods chengal and meranti, the building was still in a great condition after such a long time. For added comfort, Nash outfitted the main guest rooms with queen-sized beds, air-conditioning and mosquito nets, but little else has changed. 

The interior has all the trappings of a classic Malay home: hanging oil lamps, wooden chests, big windows, labu sayong (traditional water vessels), and even kapok-stuffed mattresses you can unroll on the floor for an old-school sleepover experience. 

Hometown Heroes

On the way to lunch, Nash says, “If we had time, I would love to bring you to Masjid Raja. Built in 1541 by Perak’s first ruler, Sultan Muzaffar Shah, it sits on a bed of volcanic ash spewed by the Mount Toba eruption 74,000 years ago. Said to be the largest volcanic eruption of all time, it expelled a whopping 2,800 cubic kilometres of ash and lava, some of which landed in my beloved Lenggong, 300km to the east!”

Eloquent, gracious and passionate, Nash is chock full of fascinating facts and entertaining anecdotes like these. Before opening Rumah Tiang 16 to the public, he spent more than a year understanding the kampung way of life and convincing the locals they had what it took to captivate outsiders. “I kept reassuring the locals to take pride in whatever they are doing and not feel inferior. I told them our ordinary is [our guests’] extraordinary, so be proud.”

One of the stars on Nash’s team is Mak Ani, a 60-year-old housewife who came into the picture when the regular chef cancelled at the last minute. Desperate, he sought her help to prepare lunch with only one criteria: “Cook whatever your family eats, using whatever you have.”

Lunch, done Mak Ani-style, is farm to fork at its purest. Served in a dangau (thatched roof hut) inside her family orchard, our sumptuous spread consists of homegrown vegetables and herbs, ulam (foraged wild greens), several types of gulai (rich curry), sambal (spicy chilli relish) pounded on the spot and pekasam (freshwater fish fermented with roasted rice, tamarind and salt).

Watching us tambah nasi — add a second helping of rice to our plates — Nash says, “The ingredients are freshly harvested, fully organic and pesticide-free, the way the kampung folk have done it for hundreds of years.” 

Rounding off our meal is cendol sagu rumbia, a hard-to-find dessert of short “noodles” made out of sago palm, served with coconut milk and smoky palm sugar. Prepared on site by Mak Lang, Mak Ani’s neighbour, it’s delicious to the last drop.

After lunch, Mak Lang demonstrates how to weave mats out of mengkuang (screwpine), a huge pandan-like plant that grows in the local jungles. On request, Nash can bring in other local artisans to conduct workshops on preparing bahulu (Malay muffin), using a kukur (a traditional coconut grater) or making bedak sejuk (rice paste talcum) — what Nash playfully calls, “Lenggong’s SKII, the beauty secret of our foremothers.” At the end of each session, guests can purchase the items as souvenirs.

Nash says, “I introduced these activities into my programme because of my own experience as a traveller. Whenever I travel to other countries, I like to go local too. When guests participate in an activity, they carry back the experience as well as a powerful attachment to the place, and tell their friends to visit too. In that way, travellers can help keep the arts and culture from disappearing.”

On my last morning in Lenggong, Nash drives me to his secret vantage point on a slope. We stand quietly taking in the panoramic view of Lenggong town set against the misty mountains of the Bintang Hijau Range.

A visit to Rumah Tiang is an experience deeply connected to the town and its people. As Nash says: “Lenggong is a hidden gem rich in history, heritage, geography, archaeology, and nature. By sharing these treasures with the public, I believe the community can be proud of their heritage and protect this for our future generations.”