Explore a Hidden Gem in North Vietnam

Take a one-day motorbike tour through the mountains in northern Vietnam?

“Uh… okay…” I reply.

Being a non-rider, I can’t imagine being perched on the back of a scooter for an entire day. Visions of an aching bum, sodden jacket and frozen fingers from hanging on for dear life, in the cold and rain, immediately come to mind.

My uncertainty must have showed in my voice, for I am told: “Yes, it’s the best way to see Ha Giang. If you don’t have enough time, I suggest you cut the one-day trek to half-day. You must do the motorbike tour.”

Having always loved trekking, I am reluctant to shorten the hike, but duly agree.

A week later, 10 minutes into the ride, I find myself grinning from ear to ear, delirious with joy.  Riding pillion with Nguyen Van Quyen, who put-puts along at a reassuring 30 km/h, I actually feel enveloped by the stunning scenery around me. With no car window or roof blocking my view, I see and hear everything –  waterfalls cascading down cliffs by the road, jagged mountains in the distance, and quiet villages nestled in the valleys below.

Trinh Thi Tuyet — one of the founders of YESD who’d arranged this tour for me — was right:

A motorbike tour is the best way to see Ha Giang.

Ha Giang is an absolute gem. Lying at the northwestern edge of Vietnam, bordering China, this rural province is packed with panoramic views of limestone and granite mountains, terraced rice fields, thick forests and traditional villages.

Sure, the provincial capital – also called Ha Giang – is 300 km from Hanoi, but the six-hour drive is well worth it. Once you’re done with the nonstop honking, traffic and tourist hotspots of Vietnam’s big cities like Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, there are few better respites than a mountain retreat.

In Ha Giang, travellers can spend entire days wandering around Hmong, Tay, Dao or Nung villages, where people go about their day as they have done for generations.

Lodged at a homestay run by the spritely Nguyen Thi Dung in Thon Tha village, I find myself absorbed by the sights and sounds of life, from the boisterous gatherings at the village hall and colourful chaos of the wet market, to the serene views of farmers working in rice fields or walking their buffalo home after a long day.

It’s a reminder of how little things have changed here: Despite the onslaught of technology – almost everyone sports a smartphone – traditions and community remain strong in this corner of Vietnam.

Over the past eight years, the social enterprise has trained people in the area to run homestays, run tours, and provide authentic travel experiences in northern Vietnam.

YESD puts part of its earnings back into the community funds of villages like Thon Tha, its pilot project. But the villagers themselves decide how this money is used: whether it’s for building modern toilets, buying warm clothing for poorer residents, or procuring cows and buffaloes for farmers.

“Villagers feel like they get something out of what YESD is doing to bring visitors to their area,” explains Tuyet.

As a result of YESD’s efforts, many villagers have been able to supplement their incomes and improve their lives.

For instance, Nguyen Van Quyen, my motorbike tour guide, used to earn just USD$200 a month as a farmer, but has tripled his income as a tour guide.

“Farming is tough,” he says. “This is a better job. I can meet people from different cultures and countries.”

Nguyen Thi Kien still works as a farmer, but also markets and sells handmade bamboo baskets and bags online.

“I used to make them just for my own use, but now I can make a little extra money with  them,” she says.

Early on my last morning, departing Mrs Dung’s for the drive back to Hanoi and flight back to Singapore, I take in the serene view of the mountains and the sounds of the village – and find  myself wishing I could stay another two weeks.

If you want to get off the beaten track, explore Vietnam’s beautiful hill country, and get a taste of authentic rural life, you couldn’t do better than a trip with YESD in Ha Giang. And you’ll be contributing towards a better future for the communities in need.